Local Schmocal

"This mission creep has the original locavores 

choking on their yerba mate."

This sentence pretty much sums up the controversy brewing over the subject of Kim Severson's article "When 'Local' Makes It Big" from Wednesday's New York Times.  She explores the "broad interpretation" of the meaning of "local food" embraced by large corporations (such as Frito-Lay) in an effort to capitalize on this growing consumer trend.  It's an interesting and educational look at how, as Michael Pollan puts it, corporations "can turn any critique into a new way to sell food."

C&S

We've Worked Up Quite an Appetite!

Have you checked out Appetite for Instruction lately?  Today's featured chef is Michelle Carpenter of Zen Sushi who generously shared her delicious and stylish recipe for Ceviche Martinis (pictured above).

I have to admit, this weekly bug-a-chef column is a lot of fun to write.  Not only does it give me an awesome excuse to call up any restaurant in the city and ask for one of their most delicious recipes, but it also offers a behind-the-scenes look at how the chefs themselves make the dish.  For instance, following along with Chef Michael Tyler, I learned that making Italian Buttercream Frosting isn't nearly as difficult I'd always assumed it would be.  They key, he showed us, is patience.  (And a reliable candy thermometer.)  And speaking of patience, I don't know that I'd have the self-control to wait 12 hours while Jeffrey Kowitz's brisket braised in the oven, but now I've got the recipe if I'm ever feeling up to the challenge.

Click here to check out the A.F.I. archives.  We're working up quite a collection!  And feel free to chime in with any suggestions for future chefs you'd like me to bug.  ...I mean interview.

C&S

Restaurant Bargains from Texas Monthly

I love getting something for (almost) nothing...  Don't you?  

The cover of April’s Texas Monthly magazine promises “Free Food! (Almost.)” and Patricia Sharpe’s feature, “How to Eat Well in Hard Times” definitely delivers. Her selection of exceptional, economical restaurant meals from across the state includes four picks from right here in Big D: 

1.  Grilled Pork Over Vermicelli with Green Papaya from Bistro B

2.  The Fried Chicken Dinner from Bubba’s

3.  The Beef-and-Cheese Cachapa from Zaguán Latin Café and Bakery

4.  Chicken Potpie from Cowboy Chow

My mouth is already watering.  Has anyone tried any of these dishes?  If so, how do they rate on *your* cheapskate gourmet scale?  Some of her picks from other cities also looked tempting - I'll definitely reference this article on my next trip to Austin or Houston or even Fort Worth (but I'll let you pick up your own copy for those).

Click here for a extra-bonus slide show, narrated by Ms. Sharpe.

A Quick Quiz for Cooks

Got a pad and pencil handy?

In Monday's Well Column in the New York Times, Tara Parker-Pope presented the findings of an interesting study conducted by Cornell University on the subject of home cooking.  The researchers there, after studying hundreds of individuals who are the main shoppers and chefs for their families, isolated five primary categories into which we home cooks fall.  Each type has a very different and powerful effect on the eating habits of his or her family. 

From the "Methodical" cook who follows recipes to the letter to her adventurous and experimental "Innovative" counterpart, these "personalities" are revealing - if a bit simplistic.  I didn't find that I fell into one category exclusively, being the type to exhibit habits and preferences from any of the five (or a combination thereof), depending on which side of the bed I woke up on that day.  I did, however, learn that I'd like to be more like one particular category, so now I can make a few changes in that general direction.  It's an interesting - and easy - quiz.  Click here to see for yourself.

Savor Dallas: A Delicious Diary

This past weekend was Savor Dallas, our annual two-day, multi-venue food and wine event.  Click the link below to read my full report on Saturday's International Grand Tasting, the centerpiece of this wonderful weekend.  I had an all-access pass, from behind-the-scenes set-up early in the day to an evening filled with chefs, winemakers and lots of amazing dishes and drinks.  

D Magazine's SideDish:  International Grand Tasting Diary

Did you attend any of the Savor Dallas events?  If so, which?  What were your impressions?

C&S

Cost-Conscious Cocktails

Happy Wednesday Everyone!  

Here's a little something to get you over the hump:  

My pal Annie Potasznik over at NBC DFW has compiled a convenient list of local happy hour specials for our after-work enjoyment.  Featuring choice hangs in the Uptown, Knox/Henderson, Downtown and Oak Cliff neighborhoods, this list begs to be printed out and tucked in your wallet for easy-access the next time you're in the mood for a tasty bargain beverage.  Cheers!

C&S

Esquire Mag's Ode to the Most Important Meal

In case you had trouble getting past the Clive Owen cover of this month's Esquire Magazine (not saying that I personally had a problem...), here's recommending you go ahead and flip to page 107 and drink in the heady food porn that is Esquire's All-You-Can-Eat Breakfast.  

Beginning with a drool-inducing photo of Banana Bread French Toast dripping in vanilla bean infused maple syrup and capped with a quivering crown of lemon sour cream, this special section proceeds to persuade the reader through essays, recipes and restaurant listings of the absolute indispensability of the modern American morning meal.  Divided into two parts - dining in and dining out - you'll first enjoy eight pages of how-to's from chefs around the country interspersed with witticisms and observations on the subject at hand.  A case in point, from Scott Raab's Love, Or Scrambled Eggs: "Breakfast is breakfast.  No metaphor, no symbol - save maybe in the sense that any social custom mirrors every other social custom, which is to say that either everything is a metaphor or symbol, or that nothing, especially not so fine and free a thing as breakfast, is.  Breakfast is too good to screw it up with meaning."  And that, my friends, is why I love Esquire.

Also contained in the first section is a recipe for Jalepeno and Ancho Oatmeal from Chef Edward Lee of 610 Magnolia in Louisville.  Combining such divergent ingredients as dried cherries, Hungarian paprika, coconut milk and (you guessed it) jalepeno peppers, it may just be the most peculiar recipe I've ever read.  The photo of another offering, Pulled Baby-Back Ribs Benedict from Chef Raymond Chen of the Inn at West View Farm in Dorset, Vermont, actually forced me to lay my head between my legs and count slowly to ten, lest I faint from overwhelming desire.  (Sorry, Clive.)

The dining out section that follows provides an "unranked, incomplete, and unimpeachable list of the best breakfasts across America."  I'm sorry to report that Dallas is not represented, however the list makes for great reading nonetheless.  Who knew that Minneapolis loves a little bison-sausage bread in the morning?  Waffle House also gets a shout-out in this second half, and New Orleans is named "America's Best Breakfast City".  Anyone who has ever felt a beignet from Cafe du Monde melt on his tongue under a hot blanket of cafe au lait will absolutely agree with that honor.

And that's not the half of it - I've only scratched the surface here, people.  Pick up a copy for yourself, and while you're at it, help me come up with a few North Texas suggestions for the next time around:  Where's the best breakfast in the Metroplex?

C&S

Quickie Quote: Bittman Bites Back

This month's Body + Soul Magazine features a mini-interview with Mark Bittman, everyone's favorite Minimalist.  Below is a thought-provoking quote from that piece.  I highly recommend picking up the March issue of Body + Soul to read the rest - along with lots of other good-for-you stuff.  It also inspired me to look into Bittman's latest book, Food Matters...

"The real danger to our bodies and our planet, in terms of poisoning the earth and global warming, is the industrial raising of meat and fish.  Do I think eating a bowl of pasta is a crime against humanity?  No.  Do I think eating half a pound of meat a day is?  Yes." 

- Mark Bittman in Body + Soul Magazine, March 2009

Super Bowl Munchies!

What's hot and crunchy, packs a spicy punch 

and will disappear before half time?  

...Give up?  

It's Susie Buck's Texas Rumaki (a.k.a. Jack's Bites), and you can learn how to make this easy crowd-pleaser in today's Appetite for Instruction on the Dallas Observer's City of Ate blog.  Susie, chef and co-owner of Jack's Backyard in Oak Cliff, is a pro when it comes to giving hungry, fun-loving guests exactly what they crave.  I had the pleasure of visiting with her earlier this week, and she provided step-by-step instructions for putting together this popular appetizer at home.  

Read all about Susie's Texas Rumaki today and your guests will thank you Sunday.  Take my word for it - bacon never had it so good.

C&S

This Spud's For You!

BuzzBrews' Garlic Marbles?  Yum!

Check out this week's Appetite for Instruction to learn Ernest Belmore's secret to delicious potatoey goodness.  Belmore, founder of Cafe Brazil and BuzzBrews Kitchen, knows his way around a Yukon Gold - and these famous Garlic Marbles are an ideal side dish for breakfast, lunch or dinner. 

Dallas Observer City of Ate:  Appetite for Instruction #2

Enjoy!

C&S

p.s.  If you missed last week's lesson, click here to learn how to make an easy and sophisticated pasta dish from another top Dallas chef:  Appetite for Instruction #1

p.p.s.  And if you have a suggestion for a future installment of this series, please do let me know!  I'm sure there are some tips, tricks and dishes you'd like to learn from restaurants/chefs around town...

Dear Food Network: We Get It Already!

After a combined 20 years of dedicated Food Network fandom, we DallasEats girls think it's high time we declared a few culinary lessons officially learned...

Months ago, FoodiePrincess and I started compiling a list of those rules and tips and faded old facts that seem to come up time and again (and again and again) when we're watching our favorite cooking shows or reading foodie magazines.   We decided we were ready, with regard to these subjects, to announce "We Get It Already!", thereby encouraging all our beloved hosts and writers to move on past their pre-recorded loops and on to more interesting instruction.

It took us quite a while to whittle the list down to the final top ten - a few items that were only marginally annoying didn't make the cut.  Here's hoping we've satisfied all our fellow Food Network frequent fliers...and if not, tell us about your pet peeves in a comment!

The DallasEats We Get it Already! List

2009 Edition

1. Salmon, blueberries and sweet potatoes are very nutritious.

No kidding?  That's only the 100th time we've heard that.  This week.  Ditto almonds, whole-grain breads and spinach.

2. A well-stocked pantry saves time and money.

We are totally on board with this fact.  However, we're sick and tired of folks telling us what we should be stocking.  Sure, a can of cannellini beans can be used to whip up a quick dip when unexpected company drops in, but what if we prefer hummus?   (And we're still staring at that orzo from ’06.)    We’ll stock our own darned pantry according to our own darned tastes, thank you very much.

3. Adding a pinch of salt to sweet dishes doesn't make them taste "salty".

We know that adding a dash of salt to brownie batter or raspberry coulis will help to bring out all the flavors.   We've been doing it for years, and it doesn't scare us even a little.

4. Add salt to aromatics when sauteing, to help them release their natural juices and soften.

Okay, duh.  Why would you not add salt to begin with?  It's what makes everything taste delicious (see rule number 3).

5. When hosting a party, try to do as much as possible in advance, so that you're not stuck in the kitchen the whole time.

Ina, Giada, Paula, Sandra...we get it.  And we agree.  But is there any regular viewer of your shows who is still making individual omelettes for New Year's Day brunch?  We think not.

6. Always salt the water when cooking pasta.

Indeed, we always have.  So did our Moms.  Maybe Grandma didn’t, but two generations is proof enough that we’ve got a handle on it.  How about going over a specific salt-to-water ratio for a change?  That would be helpful.

7. Only use real parmesan cheese.

This rule is one for the ages, but those of us who love to cook gave up the green can and its chalky, salty contents quite a while back.  We promise - you can even search our fridges.

8. This one’s for Alton:

We’re sorry, guy, but it’s been years now and we don’t know of one single person who has converted to measuring ingredients by weight.  It might be time to throw in the towel.  We even have one of those nifty digital scales, but it rarely sees the light of day.

9. Only cook with wine you would drink.

We do not now, nor have we ever, used “cooking wine”, “cooking sherry”, or anything of the sort.    Neither does anyone we know.   Please put us in touch with these Holland House devotees - we’ll personally deliver a bottle of acceptable cooking (and drinking) wine right to their door, so that we can all move past this tired old lesson.

10. A Final Note on Hand Washing

The last straw for us on this subject came in the form of a recipe we read in the paper recently which began, "Step one: wash hands".  Please.  We are doubly offended when television hosts remind us to use soap.  What is this, Cooking with Toddlers and Hobos?   Let's all agree that we are in favor of hand washing, especially after handling raw proteins, and that we pledge to continue doing so even if no one reminds us ever again.

And now, a shameless plug: For news you can really use when it comes to cooking lessons, check out Appetite for Instruction every Thursday on the Dallas Observer City of Ate blog!

Nonna: Behind the Scenes

I walked into Nonna on a chilly afternoon, right on time for a private cooking lesson with chef Julian Barsotti.  This lesson was to be photographed and posted on the Dallas Observer's City of Ate, and I was a little nervous about breaking the ice.  How to make casual foodie chit-chat with a guy who extrudes his own pasta and fires entrees in a wood-burning oven that reaches 750 degrees at its hottest point?  I fidgeted, picking invisible lint from my coat as I awaited my instructor in the dining room.

Turns out, I had no need to worry.  Chef Barsotti bounded into the room and greeted me with a warm, disarming smile.  The young chef was quick to dive into an easy conversation about his popular restaurant and the dish he would be demonstrating in the kitchen. 

"We've been really fortunate,"  Barsotti said of the success of Nonna, open just one year as of last November.  A steady stream of diners hungry for handmade Italian fare were flocking to the restaurant even before a feature in Bon Appetit sang its praises.  The article, detailing a variety of dishes from restaurants representing the "new breed" in Italian cooking in America, showcased Chef Barsotti's Taglierini with Bay Scallops and Meyer Lemon.

For our lesson, the chef selected another simple pasta preparation: Bucatini all'Amatriciana.  It's the sort of rustic, satisfying dish you'd find in a neighborhood trattoria in Italy - the kind of place food travel shows are always raving about.  And as an added bonus, we'd also be working with one of Barsotti's favorite ingredients.  (Here's a hint:  it doesn't have feathers.)  

Barsotti's picture-perfect pancetta.

Like many of his colleagues, this chef professes a love of all things pork-related.   At one point he raved, "Swine is definitely my favorite animal to eat!"  Now that's enthusiasm.  In the dish of the day, we'd be incorporating Barsotti's house-cured pancetta into a rich, tomato-based sauce with hefty dose of heat.  

After the chat, we made our way to the back of the house to tackle the task at hand.  Following Chef Barsotti through the kitchen door, I was greeted by the beautiful, bustling chaos that lies in the heart of most every restaurant.  Men and women in fresh whites and aprons swirled around us, filling bowls and bins and ramekins with colorful bits and pieces.  Dollies loaded with boxes and crates criss-crossed the room, and a radio blared classic rock in the background.  I was reminded of my restaurant days as the familiar sights and sounds and smells of this behind-the-scenes work played out in front of me.  But it was no time for a trip down memory lane; there was cooking to be done.

And speaking of cooking, you'll have to click here to see the rest of the story:  

Dallas Observer City of Ate:  Appetite for Instruction

This container of leftover pasta lasted about five minutes after I got home.

I left Nonna that day with a tiny pink box of leftovers and a new dish to flaunt to my friends, but most of all I was thankful to have observed firsthand this talented chef's energy and enthusiasm for his craft.  I hope his lesson inspires you to toss together a little pasta for dinner tonight!

C&S

Dave Faries Has No Friends

... And don't get him started on cold pizza.

Fresh off a few years in the Czech Republic as food critic at the Prague Post, Dave Faries has just returned to town to take up the restaurant reviewing reins at the Dallas Observer. He may miss the glamorous ex-pat lifestyle, and those post-Pairing Off  hangovers are nothing compared to football withdrawal, but so far we're loving his weekly explorations of the Big D dining scene (not to mention the new City of Ate blog). Click here to read his first few reviews.

DallasEats caught up with Dave this week, and traded a few entertaining answers to our own Burning Questions for... well, we're not really sure what he'll ask for in return, but we know it won't be a gift basket of canned beets and tapioca pudding mix.  (Photos, from top:  1.  Dave at a party - image altered to preserve his anonymity.  But it's really him, honest.  Guess you'll just have to take our word for it.  2. Beautiful Prague.  No wonder he stayed so long!)

DallasEats: What is the general process you follow when reviewing a restaurant?

DF: Well, it's not really all that exciting: Call for reservations or just walk in - and repeat a few times. Then do it over and over for years on end.

But, of course, I never use my real name when I call. Usually, I combine the first and last names of two one-hit wonders, such as the guy who did "Hot Child in the City" with the Unabomber... using his first name, of course. I develop a schedule a couple months in advance, putting the priority first on new restaurants, then chef changes and finally on places that haven't been reviewed in quite some time. Then I just try to order a good cross-section of the menu, making sure to try some things recommended by the wait staff.

Really, not much to it - except that I'm there to analyze, so there's a lot of ignoring my guest as he or she babbles. And rushing home to take notes.

DallasEats: What is the hardest thing about maintaining your anonymity?

DF: Do people really want to see me? One time I walked into a bar with Mr. Dallas of the Morning News. The bartender looked up, recognized us, and said, "Oh, my God. What did I do?" I know some places years ago that kept pictures of Dotty Griffith posted in the back.

It's not that difficult, although we have to do some reporting on occasion, requiring discussions with chefs or restaurateurs. If a server or maitre d' recognizes a critic, about the only thing that changes is the service itself - and you notice right away. It's annoying, more than anything, when managers stop by every five minutes.

Anyway, it's really hard for a kitchen to all of a sudden cook better. While I was answering this, the owner of Blue Collar Bar dropped by the office to hand deliver media kits. People are always trying make a good impression. The key is just to be brutally honest, even if your best friends owns the place.

DallasEats: Are there any foods that you absolutely hate?

DF: Tapioca pudding, cold pizza, canned beets, head cheese and non-alcoholic drinks. But I'll eat them - or drink them, as the case may be - if I have to. Well, not the cold pizza, but the other two. There's just something about congealed cheese and thickened pepperoni grease. I'd rather listen to Hannity or watch a Pauly Shore marathon. (Editor's note: I ate a slice of cold pizza this morning while posting this interview. No kidding. -C&S)

The job of a critic is to ignore personal likes and dislikes. You have to forget all that and order things the right way, keep your own preferences out of it. There's buzzwords like "authentic", "fusion", "Tuscan" and such that provide starting points for technique, stye, etc. That's where you begin.

DallasEats: If you had friends coming in town, where would you take them to eat?

DF: Hell, I don't know. I've only been back in the country for a month or so. Critics have no friends. And shouldn't they be taking me out to eat, if I did have them?

ENVY Magazine Food and Wine Issue

Run, don't walk, to pick up the new issue of ENVY Magazine, now available in Dallas!  You'll find it alongside The Observer, PaperCity and the like at dozens of locations all over town.  This special Food and Wine Issue has Mark Wahlberg and Ludacris on the cover and lots of foodie goodies inside to keep your mouth a-waterin' and your dinner calendar full throughout the month of November.

Starting on page 30 is a spread featuring 7 Texas Chefs to Watch, including an interview with the incomparable Dean Fearing.  Two of the profiles in the piece were penned by yours truly, and while I won't divulge their subjects, I can promise the stories will leave you longing for a taste of what these talented guys are cooking up at their respective Dallas-area restaurants.

Other tasty tidbits in this issue include a guide to late-night eats for the discerning post-party palate and a fascinating exploration of the science and soul behind cravings.  ...Who knew that my chocolate jones could signify a B vitamin deficiency or a desire for more freedom in my life?  

Sound tasty?  Pick up a copy today for some mouthwatering cocktail-time reading tonight!

New York Times Magazine Food Issue

Fellow foodie friends, if you have not yet seen last Sunday's issue of the New York Times Magazine, click the link below to check out a collection of incredible readables on a wide-ranging array of food-related topics.

New York Times Magazine - Food Fights!

This week's special Food Issue is chock full of interesting, though-provoking and downright entertaining stuff. Why Tip? by Paul Wachter got me thinking about, well, why we tip, and presented an interesting study of a restaurant that decided tipping should be a thing of the past. Mark Bittman, as usual, was awesome, and I'm smack in the middle of Samantha Shapiro's Kosher Wars (will finish up right after this post!). I'm also curious about the interactive feature titled Inside the Fridge of a Foodie.

The real stand-out, however, is Michael Pollan's Farmer in Chief. This author of The Omnivore's Dilemma and In Defense of Food: An Eater's Manifesto has presented an eloquent and persuasive argument for the sweeping change of this country's relationship with food and farming in the form of a letter to our next President. Holy cow - talk about food for thought...