Marty's Taxi Report: Hula Hotties Cafe and Bakery

Nobody knows this city like Marty.  He’s been driving a big yellow cab around the Metroplex for going on 30 years, and in addition to knowing all the best rush hour routes and hidden city landmarks, he’s always up on the latest and greatest in coffee shops, diners and cafés.  In fact, one of the best parts of growing up with the guy (did I mention he’s my Dad?) was being introduced to out-of-the-way restaurants and new and exciting foods on a regular basis.

Today, we’re proud to announce Marty’s brand new restaurant beat for DallasEats: Marty’s Taxi Report.  This regular feature will focus on interesting spots that may or may not have registered on your radar, and they’ll give you the lowdown from a very unique perspective.  You see, Marty doesn’t fall for the usual dog-and-pony show when it comes to eating out; he knows good food and he knows what he likes.

For his inaugural review, we sent our adventurous new reporter to Hula Hotties Café and Bakery, a two-month-old Hawaiian-themed eatery in Oak Cliff’s Bishop Arts District.  And what did Marty make of it?  Did he enjoy this little tropical stay-cation, or did Hula Hotties leave him longing for the mainland?  Read on and find out:

Marty’s Taxi Report
06.01.09

Hula Hotties Café and Bakery
244 West Davis St.
214-943-CAFÉ

First Impressions:

I made two visits to Hula Hotties: one trip alone for lunch and a return with my fiancée, Claudia, for Saturday brunch.  I noted the small restaurant’s pretty plain décor right off the bat, which was quite a surprise judging from its colorful exterior.  Frankly, I was a little afraid of winding up in a “ladies lunch” kind of joint, so this point is actually a “plus” in my book.  Nothing rubs me the wrong way like having to fight for table space with vases of pink flowers or frilly placemats.  They do have kitchy little salt and pepper shakers, but aside from that, the place isn’t all tiki’d up.

Also noted: very clean restroom.  That’s right, restroom is singular.  There is one unisex facility at Hula Hotties, which is fine by me.  You should always check out the bathroom when you visit a new place.  Clean bathroom = clean kitchen, kids.

The Food:

Lunch choices on the Asian-influenced menu included the Kona Brisket Sandwich, a Teriyaki Burger and a Thai Chicken Sandwich with Peanut Sauce.   I had the Saigon Sub, a Banh Mi-style Vietnamese sandwich.   (Menu description: Marinated Ground Pork, Thinly Sliced Ham, Spicy Mayonnaise, Mixed Greens, Assorted Pickled Veggies, Cilantro, Garnished with Peanuts, Mint, Basil. $7.95)  It was unlike other Banh Mi I’d had, in that it was served warm and almost over-stuffed with fillings.  The ground pork tasted fresh and was mildly spiced so as not to compete with the plentiful topping of herbs.  The sliced ham was also a very high-quality deli ham with a nice smoky flavor.  Though I had to ask for extra napkins (paper napkins – another “plus”), it was worth every drip.  The Saigon Sub was sloppy-good!

The Saigon Sub with Asian Cole Slaw:

There's good meat under all that rabbit food.

Brunch at Hula Hotties was really cool.  Claudia thoroughly enjoyed her Baked Monte Cristo Sandwich (Menu description: Crescent [sic] Filled with Slices of Ham, Roasted Turkey, Muenster Cheese & Raspberry-Orange Preserves.  $10.95, with sides).  I had the Loco Moco, billed as a “Hawaiian-Style Eggs Benedict”.  It was made up of steamed rice topped with a hamburger patty and poached eggs, covered in brown gravy.  To be honest, the patty was pretty dry; they might have better luck using meat with a higher fat content.  The eggs were poached just right, however, and the basic brown gravy was rich and well-seasoned.  I didn’t feel like the dish really had that much in common with Eggs Benedict, though, unless you count the “stacked” presentation.  No matter – I’d order it again.

Side dishes on both visits were a mixed bag.  Hula Hotties' Asian Cole Slaw is nothing particularly special, however, the brunch-time Rosemary Fried Potatoes were great.  Believe it or not, it's easy to mess up a fried potato, but they didn't.  They were crisp on the outside and warm and moist on the inside and the rosemary was fresh.  Also, I could make a meal of that PotatoMac Salad.  A light touch with the mayo and finely diced onion and celery are just the way to make me happy with a picnic-type salad like this one – it wasn’t heavy or gloppy or bland.

Finally, if you visit this place, you have to take something home from the bakery case on your way out.  I was happy with my choice of a gingerbread cookie (of the soft, cakey variety), which was good to eat in the car.  It didn’t crumble all over the place, and when you’ve got clients to keep in mind, that’s a good thing.  There’s nothing worse than a crumby cab.  You can also order whole cakes for birthdays and other occasions.

The Service:

Service at Hula Hotties was slow – really slow.  That Saigon Sub took 20 minutes.   I got the impression, though, that the delays were due to the kitchen and not the servers.  Everyone who waited on me was very nice, and since the restaurant is still new, I have reason to believe that things will speed up in time.

Final Fare:

Hula Hotties is worth a trip if you’re gonna be in the neighborhood or if you’re looking for something new.  It’s a little pricier than I would normally go for a weekday lunch (around $10, plus tip), but if you’ve had a productive day and feel like taking your time with the crossword, this would be a good choice.

Pinkies Up!: Tea Time at the Arboretum

Sunday was perfection.  What a day for an outing!

The sun was shining - sparkling even - and a cool breeze had blown all the heat and humidity to Houston (I think).  My sweet Momcat had arranged for tea at the Dallas Arboretum in honor of our friend B.J.'s birthday, and the three of us headed over to those gorgeous gardens on the shores of White Rock lake around noontime with visions of marigolds and ivy and tiny crustless sandwiches dancing in our heads.

After taking a leisurely hour to wander through the Arboretum under the cloudless sky, we made our way to the DeGolyer Garden Café for afternoon tea.  With sunshine streaming through picture windows and the soft sounds of a piano player in the distance, we then nibbled traditional tea-time treats while sipping from delicate china cups and catching up on all the gossip.  How civilized!

We began with the café’s Signature Zucchini Dill Soup.  Light and fragrant and ever-so-slightly creamy, it tasted just like spring.

Next we enjoyed a tiered tower of tiny sandwiches, including turkey with herb butter on rosemary bread, chicken salad on wee little croissants and creamed cucumber wedges, which were the hit of the afternoon.  I’d never tasted a cucumber sandwich before – had only heard of them on those PBS specials with folks who wear ascots – but I was surprised by their delicate and refreshing flavor.  They were an ideal match for warm sips of Apricot Orange, Strawberry Vanilla and Peach Ginger tea.

Finally, another picture-perfect tray appeared bearing mini-cheesecakes, amaretto brownies, chocolate-covered strawberries and light, buttery scones.  Slathered with strawberry jam and clotted cream, those warm scones were just the right touch at the end of such a delightful meal. (See that hand lurking in the background?  Even prim and proper ladies get impatient while waiting for fussy bloggers to figure out their cameras...)

While we did spot a few gentlemen enjoying tea in the dining room, I’d say this is a treat best enjoyed with your girlfriends – and enjoy it you will.  We left relaxed and chit-chatty, and took a spin through the gift shop before heading back home.  To top off the perfect day, Momcat and the birthday girl (see below) both found adorable souvenirs, and I bought myself the worlds’ greatest hat (think Hunter S. Thompson meets Tommy Bahama).  

To arrange an Afternoon Tea with your ladies-who-lunch 

visit www.dallasarboretum.org.

Rise No. 1: A Sinful Stay-cation

The thought of a soufflé brings many words to mind:  rich and decadent, lighter than air, perfumed with the essence of melting cheese.   The list could go on.   In reality, however, this seductive dish may very well leave you speechless…

Rise No. 1

5360 W. Lovers Lane

Inwood Village Shopping Center

214-366-9900

www.risesouffle.com

Rise No. 1 opened in early 2008, a joint venture between partners Hedda Dowd of Antique Harvest, chef Cherif Brahmi and well-known restaurateur Mark Maguire. Dowd’s desire to share the flavors of her childhood summers in France inspired the restaurant’s menu, most notably its signature soufflés. A rarity on the Dallas dining scene, those ethereal egg creations were quick to charm local audiences, and over the past year word of mouth and favorable reviews have done well by Rise No. 1. Comely crowds consistently pack this cozy spot that soothes each of the senses, first by setting a scene part Alpine chalet, part Grimms' fairy tale.

Rise is not large, but the many shadowed nooks and crannies of its unusual space give the feeling of a more ample venue. A dramatic grouping of tall, sparkling trees at the center of the restaurant divides the front dining room from a small bar area in the rear. Those trees, barren as in winter, are flecked with tiny lights and dotted here and there by woven nests filled with translucent eggs. It is an eye-catching focal point that, rather than coming across as precious or Disney-esque, strikes a somewhat dark, romantic chord (hence the reference to those Gothic Grimms). Off to one side of this faux forest is a gleaming open kitchen which operates a muted hum.

Once treated to your own corner of this cottage, warm, knowledgeable staff members will carry on the sense of calm. Balance is key when serving a specialty dish with which many diners are unfamiliar – no one likes to be lectured, but there are often many questions to be asked and answered. Servers at Rise are informative without veering into know-it-all territory.

A soufflé is little more than eggs and air and a kiss and a prayer.

Needless to say, my first visit focused on soufflés, and our server that night was helpful in guiding me and my companion through our many choices. We settled on the Jambon and Gruyere Soufflé ($14), a classic choice, as well as the Herb and Spicy Sausage version ($16). Both arrived puffed and fragrant and I don’t believe a word was uttered across the table as we lifted our silver spoons and punched into their golden caps to carve out our first steaming bites. My little dish of heaven was heady with the rich flavors of sweet ham and nutty Gruyere, soulmate of the egg. The soufflé’s airy center evoked an omelet of the lightest sort, while browned exterior layers offered a chewy, toasted counterpoint with the irresistible flavor of caramelized cheese.

This magic, by the way, was achieved in record time in Rise’s specially-designed ovens, described in detail by that first astute server. They can bake off a perfect soufflé in about 15 minutes, as opposed to nearly an hour by traditional method.

Our second entrée choice that evening was also perfect in form, but its flavor failed to dazzle. Spicy sausage, while given top billing on the menu, took a backseat to the sweet variety in this soufflé, resulting in a fennel free-for-all that nearly overpowered the dish. The Rise No. 1 Salad ($11) also suffered from a heavy-handed performance by a single ingredient. In its case, an abundance of sweet pecan vinaigrette muted the delicate flavors of mild blue cheese and an uncharacteristically timid Granny Smith apple. Baby greens, however, were fresh and vibrant, and a lighter touch with the dressing would have saved this salad from its soggy fate.

Cherif Brahmi and Hedda Dowd

Speaking of starters, the soups at Rise are standouts, including a Soupe a L’Oignon ($7), which puts that other French bistro’s puny potage to shame. Featuring fragrant beef broth and tender, sweet onions, this classic version is capped off with a gorgeous gratinéed topping of melting cheese over a baguette crouton.  Marshmallow Soup, a frequent off-menu special, has earned something of a cult following among local foodies. A rich, sweet tomato and carrot purée, this soup is topped by a trio of feather-light goat cheese soufflés (the “marshmallows” in question).  Further gilding the lily, the bowl is drizzled with a vibrant basil pesto upon service. Who needs grilled cheese when tomato soup gets this kind of top-notch treatment?

Quick on the heels of that first visit, I was downright stunned by the Salade Nicoise ($15) upon my return. An artful composition of traditional ingredients and a seared ahi filet, the generous entrée featured tender French green beans (haricot vert), roasted potatoes, hard-cooked eggs and dusky nicoise olives dressed in a well-balanced vinaigrette. The tuna, glistening red and crusted in sesame seeds, offered a silky counterpoint to the salad’s many contrasting textures. Looking with longing across the table, my dinner date noted that she was surprised “to be jealous of a salad while eating a soufflé”. Yes, it was that good.

To accompany your meal, Rise offers a full menu of wines by the glass and bottle, presented with cheeky tasting notes. It’s a fun read between courses. The restaurant also features merchandise for sale, including kitchen accessories, vintage books and gourmet foods. While pricey, the selection was tempting nonetheless, and many items also reflect Rise’s commitment to earth-friendly practices.

On a final note, desserts at Rise are not taken lightly; there are as many sweet endings offered on the menu as entrée soufflés. Choices include sweet versions of their signature dish, as well as Crème Brulée and other classics. I sampled the Chocolate Soufflé ($10), and while creamy and decadent as expected, it did not pack the bittersweet punch I craved. With a flavor likened to “hot chocolate” by my date, it instead offered a gentle, comforting chocolate experience. This final quibble did nothing, however, to dull my glow as I exited the restaurant that evening, feeling relaxed and sated after something of a mini-vacation. Rise No. 1, in this girl’s humble opinion, is a must-visit when you’re in the mood for romance or a relaxing mid-day repast.

Sushi Review-shi

Click the link below to check out a review of Sushi Zushi's delivery service by yours truly for the Dallas Observer's City of Ate blog:

How 'Bout Them Knockers - Sushi Zushi

Nothin' like delish raw fish that you don't even have to get dressed for - 

especially on a frosty day like this one!

Am I Blogging About Burritos Again? Why, Yes I Am!

Planet Burrito
5930 W. Park Blvd, Suite 1100B
Plano, TX 75093
972-380-2800

So, when I blogged earlier this year about Chipotle vs. Freebirds, a kind reader suggested that I check out Qdoba and Planet Burrito as well. I'd already been to Qdoba several times. As one of the quick and relatively cheap restaurants located near UTD, where I spent an average two nights a week for three years during grad school, it was a dinner option that I exercised on several occasions. I always found it to be basically "just ok", and certainly nowhere near the greatness range of either Chipotle or Freebirds. Then they opened a Chipotle AND a Freebird's at Campbell and 75, and I never went to Qdoba again.

Now, Planet Burrito, located in both Plano and Southlake, was a totally new concept for me. I chose the one in Plano, naturally, which is located on Park at the Tollway (across the street from that enormous Target, if you're familiar with the area). This independently owned burrito shop definitely grabbed my interest right away when I checked out their website. They offer a MUCH wider variety of potential toppings and combinations than either Chipotle or Freebirds. Everything from grilled pineapple salsa to coconut curry sauce to artichoke hearts (I would NOT recommend all three of those on the same burrito, by the way).

To make this range of choices a little less overwhelming, they also have "signature series burritos" to take the guess-work out of it for you. I have tried the Polynesian (Grilled Orange-Lemon marinated Chicken, with Black Beans, Monterrey Jack Cheese, Jasmine Rice, tomatoes, lettuce, Fresh Lime Juice & Grilled Pineapple Salsa) and the Texan (Picante Beef Brisket Braised in a Red Chili Sauce, with Refried Beans, Cheddar Jack Cheese, Tomato Chipotle Rice, Roasted Garlic, Pico de Gallo & Chipotle BBQ Sauce).

On the Polynesian, I ordered it without the tomatoes and lettuce (I don't ever eat raw tomatoes and I despise lettuce in a burrito), but with those tweaks, I thought it was quite tasty. I especially enjoyed the lime juice and grilled pineapple salsa, which added some citrus-y zing. As for the Texan (which I ordered minus pico - again with the tomatoes), it was pretty much pure heaven from bite one for me. The brisket was tender, the BBQ sauce was tangy, and the refried beans were creamy and delicious. My only quibble was the roasted garlic. It was kind of oddly crunchy, and added a weird texture-issue to the burrito. I ordered it the next time minus the garlic, and it was perfection in a tortilla.

I've also done the make-your-own burrito, in which I ordered my burrito in the same manner I would at Chipotle - Cilantro-lime rice, chicken, grilled onions and peppers, salsa, sour cream, jack cheese and guacamole on the side. Unfortunately, it did not even hold a candle to Chipotle. The chicken was a bit on the dry side and lacked flavor, and the guacamole was just not up-to-par. Overall, I think the quality of the ingredients/preparation is just not as high as it is at Chipotle.

One thing Planet Burrito does have in common with Chipotle (which will make C&S very happy) is a dedication to "seeking out Organic and Fair Trade Food and Beverage Products" whenever possible. In fact, on their website, there is an entire section dedicated to their beliefs when it comes to "Planet Responsibility", which also includes recycling and using non-toxic cleaning chemicals. Very cool.

This place is definitely worth checking out if you live or work in the Plano or Southlake areas. They are a nice change of pace from the usual Tex-Mex burrito, and I am still looking forward to trying the Indonesian (Grilled Citrus Marinated Chicken, Black Beans, Monterrey Jack, Jasmine Rice, Romaine, Mango Mint Salsa & Coconut Curry Sauce served in a Tomato-Basil Tortilla) and the Indian (Grilled Citrus Marinated Chicken or Paneer, with Cilantro Lime Rice, Romaine Lettuce, Tikka Masala, and Cucumber Paital). Yum!

Dave Faries Has No Friends

... And don't get him started on cold pizza.

Fresh off a few years in the Czech Republic as food critic at the Prague Post, Dave Faries has just returned to town to take up the restaurant reviewing reins at the Dallas Observer. He may miss the glamorous ex-pat lifestyle, and those post-Pairing Off  hangovers are nothing compared to football withdrawal, but so far we're loving his weekly explorations of the Big D dining scene (not to mention the new City of Ate blog). Click here to read his first few reviews.

DallasEats caught up with Dave this week, and traded a few entertaining answers to our own Burning Questions for... well, we're not really sure what he'll ask for in return, but we know it won't be a gift basket of canned beets and tapioca pudding mix.  (Photos, from top:  1.  Dave at a party - image altered to preserve his anonymity.  But it's really him, honest.  Guess you'll just have to take our word for it.  2. Beautiful Prague.  No wonder he stayed so long!)

DallasEats: What is the general process you follow when reviewing a restaurant?

DF: Well, it's not really all that exciting: Call for reservations or just walk in - and repeat a few times. Then do it over and over for years on end.

But, of course, I never use my real name when I call. Usually, I combine the first and last names of two one-hit wonders, such as the guy who did "Hot Child in the City" with the Unabomber... using his first name, of course. I develop a schedule a couple months in advance, putting the priority first on new restaurants, then chef changes and finally on places that haven't been reviewed in quite some time. Then I just try to order a good cross-section of the menu, making sure to try some things recommended by the wait staff.

Really, not much to it - except that I'm there to analyze, so there's a lot of ignoring my guest as he or she babbles. And rushing home to take notes.

DallasEats: What is the hardest thing about maintaining your anonymity?

DF: Do people really want to see me? One time I walked into a bar with Mr. Dallas of the Morning News. The bartender looked up, recognized us, and said, "Oh, my God. What did I do?" I know some places years ago that kept pictures of Dotty Griffith posted in the back.

It's not that difficult, although we have to do some reporting on occasion, requiring discussions with chefs or restaurateurs. If a server or maitre d' recognizes a critic, about the only thing that changes is the service itself - and you notice right away. It's annoying, more than anything, when managers stop by every five minutes.

Anyway, it's really hard for a kitchen to all of a sudden cook better. While I was answering this, the owner of Blue Collar Bar dropped by the office to hand deliver media kits. People are always trying make a good impression. The key is just to be brutally honest, even if your best friends owns the place.

DallasEats: Are there any foods that you absolutely hate?

DF: Tapioca pudding, cold pizza, canned beets, head cheese and non-alcoholic drinks. But I'll eat them - or drink them, as the case may be - if I have to. Well, not the cold pizza, but the other two. There's just something about congealed cheese and thickened pepperoni grease. I'd rather listen to Hannity or watch a Pauly Shore marathon. (Editor's note: I ate a slice of cold pizza this morning while posting this interview. No kidding. -C&S)

The job of a critic is to ignore personal likes and dislikes. You have to forget all that and order things the right way, keep your own preferences out of it. There's buzzwords like "authentic", "fusion", "Tuscan" and such that provide starting points for technique, stye, etc. That's where you begin.

DallasEats: If you had friends coming in town, where would you take them to eat?

DF: Hell, I don't know. I've only been back in the country for a month or so. Critics have no friends. And shouldn't they be taking me out to eat, if I did have them?

Bloggers' Brunch & Pepe's y Mito's Mini-Review

When: This past Saturday, 11:00 a.m.

Where: Pepe's y Mito's Restaurant, Deep Ellum

Who: Dallas-area Bloggers

Why: To get to know each other and to eat delicious Tex-Mex food

Well, Saturday was full of "firsts" for us DallasEats ladies. It's not often that we venture into Deep Ellum while the sun is still shining, and rarely if ever do we arrange to meet new people *before* cocktail hour. Still, we were both excited about the idea of talking shop with a group of Dallas bloggers while tucking into what was purported to be some pretty great Tex-Mex at Pepe's y Mito's on Elm Street.

Miss Margie, author of one of our favorite online food diaries, Eating in Dallas, had arranged this internetworking brunch (get it?), and the folks behind many Dallas food blogs had been invited. We arrived together and were greeted with open arms by Margie and her hubby, Hubbard, as well as the Food Czar and his wife, the "Rock Star". All faces were bright with smiles and we settled in with menus, chips, salsa and conversation.

Neither of us had ever been to Pepe's y Mito's, and while it does present a "dive"-like facade, the interior of the restaurant is quite large, encompassing two dining areas and one of those nifty partially-enclosed patios for semi-al-fresco dining just about all year round. It reminded FP a lot of some of her favorite places in Cozumel.

Our table was located in the bar area, which is decorated with all manner of colorful Tex-Mex kitch, and we were treated to some of the friendliest service we've ever encountered. (Note: We were especially impressed by this fact, given that early weekend brunch is notoriously loathed by waiters, often inciting resentment on their behalf which can translate into poor service on ours. Not the case at P's y M's!)

Conversation continued to flow through the aforementioned chips and salsa, an appetizer of crispy tacos and on into the main course. The crispy tacos, while a tad on the greasy side, were great eatin' nonetheless. FP sampled one of the chicken variety, and the meat was tender and flavorful with the lettuce and salsa (of course, she picked the tomatoes off) adding just the right amount of freshness and spice.

C&S's veggie fajitas were excellent - fresh and sizzling and seasoned to perfection. She swooned over bites of crisp potato, caramelized onion and sweet bell pepper piled into fresh, warm, homemade flour tortillas. That's right - homemade tortillas - the ugly, spotty, misshapen kind that taste like pure, lard-laced heaven. Awesome!

FP has been unable to stop thinking about the Cheese Enchilada included on her combination plate since leaving Pepe's y Mito's on Saturday. They seemed to actually contain--wait for it--actual honest-to-God cheese, not the processed kind you normally find in this type of enchilada. This made them chewier and more flavorful than your average cheese enchilada, and sent her to Tex-Mex heaven.

All in all, it was a lovely time. Margie was every bit the sweet, sunny lady we expected her to be from reading Eating in Dallas, and Hubbard was a treat to meet as well. Food Czar and his wife were also funny and fun, and our group was joined by another blogger, Donna of Donna Cooks, along with her better half, toward the end of the meal. She is friendly and sweet and we wished we could have chatted with her some more. So nice to meet everyone!

And the position goes to...

Dave Faries!

I'd heard a while ago that the Observer was looking to fill the position of food critic, and since then I've waited with bated breath to see who might emerge as the candidate tasked with writing the knowledgeable, compulsively readable reviews for city-dwelling diners that I fell in love with in my local alt-weekly over the past 20+ years. Looks like they've settled on Dave Faries, and I couldn't be happier with the choice.

I've been a fan of Faries for a long time, and his first review reminded me why. It's comprehensive (many dishes sampled over multiple visits by a tongue that knows what it's tasting), well-written and entertaining for the reader. Here's looking forward to a return to looking forward to each week's new dining posts on DallasObserver.com.

Tiki Torch Song

Trader Vic's is a ticket to paradise, minus the jet lag

(especially after a Mai Tai or two in the pre-flight lounge)

With a few moments to spare before my dinner dates arrived, I perched on a woven leather stool at the bar inside Trader Vic's and assessed my exotic surroundings. Tables ringed with lowslung seats in glossy rattan sported glowing candles and Aloha-print cushions. A glance above my head revealed a corrugated roof covered in newsprint, faded sepia with age, which added an air of seaside shanty to the look of the lounge. Bamboo accents and all manner of skowling tikis were scattered throughout, from tabletop tchotchkes to sturdy, room-dividing joists that stood sentry between the bar and dining room.

These tropical accents and warm, sunset-style lighting worked their time and travel magic, leaving me feeling as though I'd been wandering aimlessly around a mid-century Pacific resort (Is that Lana Turner in the canary-yellow turban?), and happened upon a group of three other restless travelers, all of us deciding on the spur of the moment to make an evening of it together.

Once we were all accounted for - three boys, one girl and four Mai Tais - we clinked a toast and quickly sipped our spicy, herbal libations while talking a mile a minute about everything and nothing at all. It's true what they say: the Trader can really Tai one on, and they're not as pricey as you may have presumed ($7). We nibbled on skewers of pineapple and cherry floating in our boat drinks and soon it came time for another. Some of us castaways switched over to Zombies, a more potent concoction that nonetheless sips like nursery juice. In all, four pages are required to run down the full menu of tropical tipples at Trader Vic's.

Our second round brought us even more cheer (as expected), and each story was taller, more fascinating, more riotous than the last. Even though I'd never set painted toe in this tiki temple before, the company and conversation had me feeling right at home. When it came time to migrate into the dining room, we trailed like ducklings after a well-suited server who ensconced us in a generous palm-green banquette.

Pondering the menu with one eye, we simultaneously ogled yet more layers of island imagery in this second half of the restaurant. Rope and paper lanterns hanging high above might be the same style spotted at the Robinsons' tree-warming party, but crisp white tablecloths definitely spoke to the fine-tuned treatments of classic Continental and Asian dishes offered on the menu. Tidbits and Pupus tempted (Spare Ribs and Skewers and Crispy Prawns - oh, my!), but we dove right into the big kids' pool and were soon presented with plates of high-tone Chow Mein, succulent Steamed Sea Bass and one honkin' bone-in Hawaiian Chop that would have had Fred Flintstone blinking back a tear. Every entree was executed with care - my fish melted to moist firm flakes with the flick of a fork - but I'd be remiss not to mention that this is the arena in which prices float upward from "townie" to "tourist".

Our conversation continued to flow throughout the meal (full mouths be damned), and in the end, not a morsel remained. Not even one sip of candy-colored concoction was left to languish in the bottom of a frosted tumbler. We new friends squeezed every last drop out of our one-night vacay, and while padding back toward the door across printed pomegranate carpet (Simply red? Not on this island!), we hugged and shook and promised to do it again soon. And why shouldn't we? This island oasis is right up the road - no passport required.

Trader Vic's

5330 East Mockingbird Lane, Dallas

http://www.tradervicsdallas.com/

Noteworthy Culinary News Items

This is just a quickie on two items of note in the world of Dallas dining today:

1.  Doughmonkey, Snyder Plaza's answer to Heaven on Earth, is closing its doors for good.  

I read this yesterday afternoon on the Guidelive Eats blog not minutes after having a conversation with a friend about the next time we'd be heading over that way for some of Rhonda's amazing chocolate chip cookies and jewel-like gems of handcrafted artisan chocolate.  I could go on and on about the proliferation of status-shops pushing $5 boulders in cupcake wrappers and wonder aloud about why a place like Doughmonkey can't seem to stay afloat.  But I won't.

2.  Check out the awesome review of the Landmark Restaurant in the Guide today!

I had the unique pleasure of dining at the Landmark recently with a dear friend on a 4-course menu prepared by Chef Jeff himself.  I can attest to the review's accuracy - the food was awesome, and Chef Jeff is definitely a rising star.  Really nice guy, too.  Big Congrats!

Yes, Virginia, there is a Santa Buzz

Ever since BuzzBrews opened in the former Pitt Grill spot at Fitzhugh and 75, I can't seem to keep from drooling every time I head north on the highway.  But being the lazy little thing that I am (Three exits?!  Might as well be three hours!), and being not particularly disposed to my local outpost of Cafe Brazil (I explained why here), I often found myself wishing and praying and hoping against all hope that one day this 24/7 great food/great coffee joint would grace me with a presence nearer to the Oak Lawn area.

Well, lo and behold, my prayers were answered.  When I heard what was going into the hard-luck space at Lemmon and Herschel, I could barely contain my excitement.  A real live BuzzBrews right in my own back yard!

Crowds of shiny, happy people have packed the new spot since it opened just a few days ago, feasting on bountiful breakfasts, lip-smackin' lunches and all manner of other delicious dishes in the wide-open dining area overlooking (wait for it) the Radio Shack parking lot.  Oh, well, maybe my new Brews doesn't have a view, but it's got some righteous coffee, friendly service and someone in the kitchen who may very well be my new culinary best bud (sorry, FP).

Take the Griddle Toast, for instance.  Think French Toast's rich uncle.  Soaked in a silken egg custard and grilled golden brown, it's oh, so much more decadent than the average pain perdu.  And that's before it's topped with Vermont AA Maple Syrup and a sprinkling of nuts.  Add two eggs and two slices of bacon, and you've got the Pitt Grill Griddle Toast breakfast.  It's an homage of which the dive of my high school days would be proud.  

Other clucking delightful egg dishes sampled included the Popeye (spinach, tomato, onion and feta cheese wrapped in a fluffy omelet) and the Californication (you'll have to look that up yourself), both of which can also be served as crepes.  Alongside you'll receive buttery, brioche-type toast and BuzzBrews' "garlic marbles" -  seasoned potatoes that were were, unfortunately, underdone when sampled on a recent visit. 

I took the misstep in stride, however, considering the crowd that morning and the exceptional quality of everything else on the plates.  To prolong my pleasure, I carried home an 8 oz. bundle of joy:  my very own bag of Buzz Brew, ground to my own particular specifications, which has awakened me with the appropriate combination of strength and encouragement every morning this week.  (For me, coffee is all about tough love.)

I can't wait to get in for dinner, and once I do, you'll hear all about it.  For now, however, I think you know where you're headed for that 2 a.m. post-party fix.  Or for brunch on Sunday.  Or both.

http://buzzbrews.com/

New location:  4334 Lemmon Avenue, Dallas

Best Chicken Fried Steak?

This is just a quickie, but it's totally worth a mention:

The September issue of Esquire magazine features a mouthwatering spread entitled The Esquire Almanac of Steak, including a listing of The 20 Best Steaks in America by John Mariani.  "This may be the last article worth reading about American steak," reads the prologue, and Mariani proceeds to list a score of meaty meals from restaurants across the country.  Wishing to represent what he refers to as "Diversity of Preparation",  Mariani includes not only classic seared steakhouse sirloins, but various other regional and international specialties.

As I scanned the list (Peter Luger's Porterhouse, Skirt Steak at El Raigon in San Francisco), one item in particular caught my eye:  Paris Coffee Shop, Fort Worth, Texas - Chicken Fried Steak.  Is it so?  Is this the best CFS around?  Have I been hiding under a rock?  Have you tasted it?  How was it?  My curiosity is piqued!

C&S

p.s.  I have my doubts, as the piece mentions that the CFS in question is "deep fried", but I still want to get to the bottom of this matter.

VeVe 180

After a visit to VeVe last night, the difficult decision was made to amend our previous post.

Contrary to glowing reports of amazing food, sexy lighting and live music at this Lakewood spot, the food and atmosphere on our visit were just "okay" (no need to be persnickety and particular in this instance - we'll just leave it at that), and a visit from the chef confirmed our assumption that someone else must now be doing the cooking back in the kitchen.  It was not the chef that my friend had met when he fell in love with VeVe some weeks ago, the chef that had dazzled him with delicious, masterfully prepared Latin dishes.  This was a different fellow, one who fed us adequately but failed to impress.

This change in kitchen talent, combined with several other minor but cumulatively significant glitches in our experience last night, were enough to warrant this post today. 

Sigh.  In the immortal words of Bad Santa, "They can't all be winners, kid."

C&S

Next Food Network Star Offers Consolation Prize!

Was anyone else as disappointed as DallasEats in this season's unpalatable Next Food Network Star competition?  Week after week, the judges seemed to shove most of their good sense and judgement down the In-Sink-Erator, and contestants didn't fare much better, what with all the undercooked food, poor camera delivery and downright shoddy chefsmanship on display.

Still in all, we agreed with the Final Three, and hung in there to the bitter end - we're no quitters! Our loyalty was rewarded, however, with the inexplicable decision to give the title, braggin' rights and brand new show to Aaron McCargo, Jr., despite his less-than-stellar performance in the last challenge.  We love Aaron, and that man can cook, but as far as "total package", he just didn't have the on-camera chops to justify the judges' decision.  The fact that the Food Network's website leaked the winner days in advance also took much of the fun out of the game for viewers.

In our not-so-humble opinion, the true show-stopper in the final challenge was Adam Gertler.  His humorous, effortlessly educational mini-show was our fave, and he had camera presence and then some compared to his two somewhat stiff, often stumbling competitors.  We're suckers for a lovable goofball.  Thus, you can imagine our delight today upon learning that the Food Network will be giving Adam his own show as well.  Titled "Will Work for Food", the show will have Mr. Gertler exploring the world of culinary employment through a variety of food-related jobs.  Sounds like fun! (Also sounds like a refreshing concept.)

On a related note, the debut of Aaron's show "Big Daddy's House" yesterday rated a solid "good".  The dishes were deliciously unique (a Roasted Pork, Provolone and Broccoli Rabe Panini really got the mouth watering), but the host's discomfort on camera was still apparent.  His delivery was bumpy at times, and the rapid-fire cuts of the program were a sure-fire tip-off that multiple boo-boo's had to be edited out.

The final loose end is Lisa Garza, our hometown girl from the Final Three.  Apparently, there was only one runner-up prize to be had - no new show announcements as yet for sassy, stylish Lisa.  Perhaps it's just as well that she stay here in Big D, hosting packed crowds at her restaurant Suze, which will inevitably see a boom in business in the wake of her newfound fame.

A few things I'm in love with this week...

Here are a few things that have captivated me, food-and-beverage-wise, in the last week or so. Below you'll find an offbeat recipe, a new grocery item and a must-visit winery right here in Dallas (it's classy and sassy, just like you-know-who). I'm sure that one or more of them will be up your alley, too.

Ingrid Hoffman's Mini Cuban Burgers (Fritas)

http://www.foodnetwork.com/food/recipes/recipe/0,,FOOD_9936_66374,00.html

I love Ingrid Hoffman and her Latin-influenced cusine. What a welcome change of pace from the endless parade of Italian iterations that seems to be taking over my favorite cooking shows! These sliders are exceptional: sweet, tangy and a little bit like a meatloaf sandwich with a kick. Be advised that the recipe made 24 generous mini-burgers for me (the link above will tell you 12, but I believe it's a misprint). I was pleasantly surprised by the surplus - a little time in the kitchen gave me dinner plus a freezer full of burger-liciousness for cravings to come.

Orowheat Double Fiber Bread

http://www.oroweat.com/

Finally, a great tasting whole wheat bread that doesn't suck all the moisture from your cheeks in the time it takes to eat your sandwich. It's so good, in fact, that I'd choose this bread over just about any other sandwich loaf, even if it wasn't so nutritous and packed with fiber. You know, when you're a semi-pro eater like me, you've got to give yourself good stuff whenever you can. That way you can justify the ginger creme brulee you might happen to sneak in after lunch once in a while (totally hypothetically speaking).

Times Ten Cellars
http://www.timestencellars.com/

This Lakewood gem is a must-visit for anyone who loves wine. The space is eclectic and warm, and the wines are earning praise left and right. Slip into the tasting room on a Saturday afternoon for a sip of something cool, or head over after work for a light dinner of pate and artisinal cheese. Gaze at the crystal chandeliers twinkling over oak in the barrel room, then head out on the patio for a little people-watching. Don't forget to take home a bottle or two of the award-winning rose or whichever winds up being your new fave from the Times Ten line-up.

DallasEats Reader Picks: Olenjack's Grille

Olenjack's Grille
http://www.olenjacksgrille.com/
770 Road to Six Flags E, suite 100
Arlington, TX

We'd like to begin this post by reiterating the fact that these Reader Pick evaluations are not "reviews". When we set out to thoroughly evaluate a dining establishment, we visit it at least twice. In many cases, we may go three times or more, attempting to hit the place at different times of the day. That way we can try to evaluate both lunch and dinner, or at least a different waitstaff shift. We felt the need to offer this intro because it pains us both to make negative comments about a restaurant we've only dined at once. That being said...


Olenjack's Grille in Arlington seems to have a split personality. The first, we'll call it Jack's, is a posh steakhouse crossed with a Star Canyon-esque Tex-fusion restaurant that strives to impress and often succeeds. Jack's has classy, if dated, starched burgundy tablecloths and a nicely appointed wine list. Jack's is a place we'd drive out of our way to go to again.


Personality number two, which we'll call Olen's, is an average eatery with a hotel dining room decor, butcher paper on the table and a staff that languishes between courses and drink refills. At Olen's, they take a diner-like approach to service, sending each plate out with a food runner as it's ready, leading to an auction at the table ("Who had the pork chop, guys?"). This was a sticking point for us. When you're paying upwards of $30 a head for dinner, ladies should be served first, gentlemen second and it's not out of the realm of reasonable expectation that the kitchen have everything ready to roll at the same time.


Olenjack's split personality crosses over onto the menu as well. Starters (listed as "small plates") were impressive, and a few of these with wines to match would have made a lovely meal. Salt and pepper shrimp were perfectly cooked - no rubber tires here - and the spicing offered a pleasant bite. Steak-cut calamari was surprisingly tender, but the runny, bland tomato sauce it was served with kept it from achieving greatness.


Entrees were a similar mixed bag, with our group of six split 4-2 in favor of "eh". The standout dish was a vegetarian pasta ordered with extra mushrooms. The kitchen was more than happy to accommodate and we were presented with a plate that would have made the most ravenous hobbit happy. Shrimp and grits also pleased, although the grits themselves were so salty that they almost threw the whole dish off course. Fortunately, the andouille sausage and mustard greens added enough of a bite to keep the dish at least somewhat on track. Those members of the party ordering from the grill were most disappointed, one commenting that his pork chop was "OK", but that it had a strange, metallic aftertaste. For these grill-ees, however, side dishes such as a succulent roasted cream corn and maple mashed sweet potatoes came to the rescue of their ho-hum entrees.


Dessert left us with smiles on our faces. From the surprise appearance of Henry's Homemade Ice Cream (a DallasEats fave), to a luscious "Key Lime Tart", it was the most enjoyable course of the evening. A word of warning: "Key Lime Tart" is placed in quotation marks because it is better described as a piece of key lime cheesecake (at least texture-wise) or creamy key lime pie. It is also better described as enormous and scrumptious, although FP freely admits that she's a sucker for anything key lime.



Our only quibble with the dessert course was that we wished that coffee had been served *with* it, instead of ten minutes ahead of the game. Those who wanted to sip a little after dinner joe while their companions had a sweet nibble were already down to the cold dregs in their mugs by the time dessert arrived. Refills were not offered. Sigh.


This new restaurant is promising, but DallasEats is hesitant to pass along a recommendation. Another appearance from Olen's might ruin your visit to Jack's.

DallasEats Reader Picks: John's Cafe

John's Cafe

http://www.johns-cafe.com/

1733 Greenville Ave, Dallas

(see website for second location in Plano)

A couple of weeks ago, FP and I asked our readers to recommend their favorite undiscovered restaurants. I must confess, it was a selfish ploy. What appeared at first glance to be a friendly way to get the word out about some great places you might not have heard of, was, for me at least, a means by which I could gain access to a few closely guarded gustatory secrets.

Case in point: John's Cafe. Our dear friend and loyal reader Elizabeth offered this unassuming hole-in-the-wall off Greenville Avenue in response to our request, and it was just what we were looking for. Thus, I am faced with a dilemma - now that I know about John's, I'm reluctant to share the wealth. A place like this makes you wanna keep a secret.

John's Cafe sits in a strip mall on lowest Greenville, next to a Thai restaurant, across the street from Lucky's Roadhouse (great bar, different story). You'd miss it if you weren't looking real hard. A companion and I rolled in about 11 a.m. on a weekday for a late breakfast/early lunch. Our first impression was that this tiny place was squeaky-clean, from the linoleum floors to the vinyl booths lining the walls on our left and right. We proceeded to the back counter to place our order - my pal went for the Combo Omelette and I had a cheeseburger and fries. My antennae are always up when it comes to finding great burgers, and I noticed that the word "Hamburgers" is actually on the sign out front of John's - a very good omen.

As my companion pondered his beverage order, a gray-haired, mustachioed gentleman sitting at the counter tipped his newspaper and suggested "Ouzo...?" with a wink (and a thick Greek accent). Once we began to chuckle, the old man joined in, along with the man taking our order. I don't know if this was an impromtu performance, or their standard "new customer" joke, but we were charmed nonetheless.

Our food arrived in mere moments and soon we were tucking into some solid diner-style fare. My mate's omelette was a monster, filling 3/4 of a dinner plate, and it contained a little of everything - cheese, meats and veggies of several varieties. Alongside were some nice-looking hash browns featuring a respectable dark brown-to-creamy white potato ratio. My burger was a solid "B+", earning points for juiciness, generous amounts of cheese and toppings and a toasted bun (a personal requirement for anything above a "C" rating).

I can't wait to return and try some of the Greek-inspired dishes on John's menu - Gyros, anyone? Considering the crowd that began to gather as our early lunch wrapped up, however, I'd suggest hitting John's at off-peak hours. See why I didn't want to let you in on my new little secret? Thanks, Elizabeth, for the excellent pick! (note: I miss you very much now that you're all the way up in Boston...but at least I won't have to fight you for a table at John's!)

Enlighten Us!

DallasEats Wants to Know:

What's your favorite find?

We had so much fun with our Neighborhood Finds and Top Crave-able Dishes (see Aug-Oct of last year), that we're ready to find more. In fact, now we want to know yours!

Yes, that's right - DallasEats is admitting that there just may be a little hole-in-the-wall place we've never heard of ...or perhaps a menu item at a local restaurant that isn't getting the attention it deserves. What is your favorite local find? What's the very best dish of it's kind that might become a recurring necessity in our lives?

Leave a comment below and we'll run right out and take you up on your recommendation. Anywhere in Dallas is fair game. We'll even consider nearby suburbs (just don't expect us to haul up to Sherman). A future post will contain FoodiePrincess and Classy&Sassy's thoughts on what we're sure will be a slew of new favorites, and maybe a few controversial contenders.

We can't wait to try your finds!

Think Globally, Drink Locally

We already know you love wine ...but how often do you choose Texas wine? If you're like us, you may have shied away from Texas wine in the past for a number of reasons - lack of familiarity with brands, limited availability or even *gasp* a bad past experience. We've been there; we feel your pain.

But today we propose you take another look at wines from the Lone Star State. Why? For starters, Texas wineries have been bringing better products to the table with each passing year. The wines are delcious and complex and affordable to boot! (Get it? Boot? Texas? Save your groans 'till the end, please...) Toss in the fact that local products are in vogue for their lower carbon footprints and you have every reason to give one - or more - of our suggestions a try. We've sampled more than a few, and listed our faves below to help you figure out where to start the next time you're at the wine shop.

Also, please comment on any Texas wines or wineries that you recommend - we'd love to hear about 'em!

DallasEats Recommended Texas Wines:

Becker Vineyards

http://www.beckervineyards.com/

The 2006 Iconoclast Cabernet Sauvignon is a friendly wine at a great price - medium bodied and not too dry. Becker Viognier is a light-bodied white that will be perfect in the spring and summer months.

Peregrine Hill

(no website)

Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir are both consistently well reviewed. The distinctive Peregrine Falcon on the label is native to far west Texas' Escondido Valley, where the wine is grown and bottled.

Messina Hof

http://www.messinahof.com/

This is a personal favorite of ours - especially Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots. We recommend all vintages, as we've never had a bottle we didn't like.

Brennan Vineyards

http://www.brennanvineyards.com/

This up-and-coming Central Texas winery's Viognier just won the prestigious title of Top Texas Wine at the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo Int'l Wine Competition. If you see it, snap it up.

C&S's Books of the Year 2007

Books for Any Appetite

My insatiable appetite for good food is matched by a similar craving for books. When the two converge I simmer up some tea, huddle under the covers and don't come out 'til I've read my fill. Months pass, friends forget what I look like ...such is the life of a foodie. Not to worry, though - I've emerged from this year's reading room bearing a trio of recommendations. These are not cookbooks (though they do contain recipes), but food-related books that will have you laughing, thinking and maybe even changing the way you eat.



Best Food Writing 2007
Edited by Holly Hughes


This compilation of the very best in food-related writing from 2007 includes pieces by Barbara Kingsolver, Anthony Bourdain, Frank Bruni and a host of other familiar names. Covering dozens of topics ("Porno Burrito" by Jonathan Gold; "The Japanese Paradigm" by John Kessler; "The Best Burger" by Raymond Sokolov) in easily-digestible 3-5 page tidbits, this book is perfect to tuck in your handbag for reading here and there at lunch or waiting in line at the bank. Or you could just devour it all in one afternoon like I did.






Eat, Drink and Be Gorgeous:
A Nutritionist's Guide to Living Well While Living it Up
By Esther Blum, MS, RD, CDN, CNS



All those letters after her name mean Esther Blum knows what she's talking about. Her book is smart, yet easy to understand. Best of all, it's funny and conversational - like a long chat with a friend about eating right and looking great. In addition to general information, Blum offers recipes for yummy *healthy* snacks and sweets, body treatments, hangover prevention/remedies, as well as supplement recommendations to aid conditions ranging from thinning hair to decreased sex drive. I dog-eared many pages in this book, and will keep it close at hand for reference.




The Omnivore's Dilemma
A Natural History of Four Meals
By Michael Pollan

Local. Grass-fed. Seasonal. Organic. Beyond Organic. These buzzwords are used over and over again in food-related journalism. To find out what they (and dozens of others) really mean, this is the book to read. In it, Michael Pollan performs a minute dissection of the American food chain and what he uncovers is fascinating, disturbing and ultimately, illuminating. The Omnivore's Dilemma was published in 2006, but it's taken me a long time to work my way through it. Eschewing scare-tactics and random, alarming factoids, Pollan instead relies on solid research and straight-up reporting to inform us about what we're piling on our plates. From the introduction: "...our eating turns nature into culture, transforming the body of the world into our bodies and minds." I found this book optimistic, in its own peculiar way - Pollan wants us to remember that knowledge is power.